Ciriaco “Ciro” Cozzi was a leading figure in the art colony’s post-war renaissance, not just because of his paintings but because of Ciro & Sal’s, the Northern Italian restaurant he and Sal Del Deo opened in 1954, when Kiley Court was still Peter Hunt’s Lane. Some of the town’s most important artists, like Varujan Boghosian, worked here. And when I say everyone ate here, I mean everyone — from John Wayne to John Waters. In 1960, Cozzi protected one of his waiters from a purge of homosexuals by the town’s police chief. He started an epicurean market, La Dispensa di Ciro, in the ’60s; purchased the Flagship; and opened restaurants in Boston and Orleans, stretching himself too thin. The business was sold in 2000 to Anne Packard, Cynthia Packard, and Larry Luster, who had worked for Cozzi more than 30 years. Cynthia and Larry’s son, the artist Zachary Luster, is the current manager.
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