186 Commercial Street


Named for the great Italian automobile racer and manufacturer, Enzo Ferrari, this establishment is a restaurant, a guest house (five rooms) and a bar (Grotta). It is run by John Yingling, whose other properties are Bubala’s by the Bay, across the street, and Spiritus nearby. The garden of whimsical wrought botany was designed and fabricated by the Kacergis family of the Provincetown Welding Works at 3 Bradford Street. This was formerly Esther’s Inn, run by Esther Chamberlain

Esther’s aimed “to capture all the glamour and ritzy sophistication that embodies her reputation,” Fodor said. In the late 1980s, it was called the Painted Lady Inn. The building is reportedly haunted, Susan Leonard told me.

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