105 Bradford Street Extension

105 Bradford Street Extension, the Chateau Provincetown, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

105 Bradford Street Extension, the Chateau Provincetown, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Sprawled over a four-acre hilltop site, the sheer size of the 55-room Seaglass Inn and Spa — known previously as the Chateau Motel, Best Western Chateau Motor Inn and Chateau Provincetown — is unlike anything in town. Two generations of the Gordon family were involved: William and Emily (Prada) Gordon opened the motel in 1958 and expanded it. They were followed by their son, William Gordon Jr., and his wife, Charlotte. The Gordons proposed tearing down the motel in 2007 and converting the property into a 10-lot subdivision, but kept the Chateau ouvert until 2013, when they sold it to Nadine Licostie, a filmmaker, and her wife, Faith Licostie, an emergency-room nurse, who rechristened it Seaglass and reopened it in 2014.

144 Bradford Street Extension

144 Bradford Street Extension, the Galeforce Farm barn, courtesy of Allen Gallant.

144 Bradford Street Extension, the Galeforce Farm barn, courtesy of Allen Gallant.

144 Bradford Street Extension, Gale Force Bikes, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

144 Bradford Street Extension, Gale Force Bikes, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Beach Market and Gale Force Bikes, a popular place to rent bicycles for the Cape Cod National Seashore trails, occupies the site of the main barn of Galeforce Farm, founded at the turn of the 20th century by Frank Silva Alves, a fisherman and native of Pico, in the Azores. In its early days, it was one of five dairy farms in town. Frank’s son, Joseph Alves, took over in 1934, installed pasteurization equipment in 1941, and increased the herd to more than three dozen Guernsey and Holstein cows. But a lack of farmhands and a spate of bad weather killed off Galeforce in 1952, by which time it was the last dairy farm at the Cape tip.

147 Bradford Street Extension

147 Bradford Avenue Extension, Galeforce Farm farmhouse, courtesy of Allen Gallant (1956).

147 Bradford Avenue Extension, Galeforce Farm farmhouse, courtesy of Allen Gallant (1956).

Raymond Alves and friends, courtesy of Allen Gallant.

Raymond Alves and friends, courtesy of Allen Gallant.

Allen Gallant, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Allen Gallant, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

An ample farmhouse from the early 20th century still stands, and still commands a proprietor’s prospect over what was once dairy land. The main building of the Safe Harbor condominium at No. 147 was the home of Joseph Alves and Irene (Raymond) Alves, who ran Galeforce, the town’s last commercial dairy farm. Their son Raymond Alves sold the property in 1990 to his brother-in-law, Allen Gallant, who created the condo in 2005. Gallant’s husband, David Cox, is a pioneer in chronicling Provincetown from a drone’s-eye view.

175 Bradford Street Extension

175 Bradford Street Extension, Dairy Queen, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project (1987).

175 Bradford Street Extension, Dairy Queen, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project (1987).

Elmer Silva, courtesy of Provincetown High School.

Elmer Silva, courtesy of Provincetown High School.

Dairy Queen matchbook, courtesy of Salvador R. Vasques III.

Dairy Queen matchbook, courtesy of Salvador R. Vasques III.

Joe “The Barber” Ferreira opened “probably the only Dairy Queen franchise in America that served kale soup,” Amy Whorf McGuiggan wrote My Provincetown. It replaced the Wagon Wheels diner, run by Alfred “Fall River” Perry. The D.Q. was later owned by Elmer Silva, principal of Provincetown High School, who employed students like Yvonne Frazier, now a professional opera singer in Europe. It morphed into Silva’s Seafood Connection, run by Paul Silva and his brother, David Silva, a proprietor these days of the Red Inn. After turns as LiCata’s and the Beach Grill, it was razed by Victor DePoalo to make way for condos and Victor’s restaurant.

2 Bradford Street

2 Bradford Street, former Mary's Snack Bar, now demolished, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

2 Bradford Street, former Mary’s Snack Bar, now demolished, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

From the 1940s through the 1960s, this shack was Mary’s Snack Bar — better known as Mary Spaghetti’s — run by Mary Souza. Open until 3 a.m., it was a popular rendezvous with “night prowlers,” as The Advocate put it, and anathema to the neighbors. Among the night prowlers once — it is said — were Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Mary’s claims to fame were clamburgers and pepper steak, but the name of the joint suggested another specialty of the house — besides general uproar. Kim Oliver of Provincetown Florist, who owns the property, replaced the tumbledown shack with a Cape-style cottage in 2011.

3 Bradford Street

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

3 Bradford Street, Provincetown Welding Works, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Michael Kacergis, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Michael Kacergis, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

The amazingly animate yard of the Provincetown Welding Works looks like a Tim Burton movie come to three-dimensional life. It was founded in 1946 by Clarence Kacergis. “At first, he imagined a simple welding shop until several Provincetown artists and sculptors looked to stretch themselves and embrace metal as a heightened form of expression,” Gerry Desautels wrote in The Banner. Among them was Chaim Gross. In the present day, Desautels continued: “Maritime objects, fauna, flora and Cape characters — strumming musicians, rowing sailors and sawing woodsmen — are depicted in quirky Kacergis style throughout the chock-a-block shop. … The works are wonders of modern recycling and years of collecting parts and pieces.” Clarence’s son, Michael, succeeded to the business.

27A Bradford Street

27A Bradford Street, fly loft of the Barnstormers' Theater, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

27A Bradford Street, fly loft of the Barnstormers’ Theater, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

In a town of wild structures, this amazing relic is one of the wildest: a fly loft for a theater that was integral to the Provincetown renaissance. Frank Shay, an editor and bookseller, belonged to the Provincetown Players. In 1924, to keep the spirit alive after the troupe moved to New York, he converted his barn into the Barnstormers’ Theater, Leona Rust Egan wrote in Provincetown as a Stage. After Paul Robeson’s successful portrayal of The Emperor Jones, Shay campaigned to bring that production to town. Instead, Egan said, Robeson appeared here in 1925 in a program of spirituals and folk songs. Local lore has it that Bette Davis also trod these boards. The cottage colony around the theater was known in the 1940s and ’50s as Skipper Raymond’s Cottages, run by Frank and Frances (Perry) Raymond, who’s on the mural at Fishermen’s Wharf. Napi Van Dereck now owns the property.

31 Bradford Street

31 Bradford Street, Carreiro's Tip for Tops'n, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

31 Bradford Street, Carreiro’s Tip for Tops’n, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

31 Bradford Street, Carreiro's Tip for Tops'n, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

31 Bradford Street, Carreiro’s Tip for Tops’n, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

From the name (“Tip of the Cape for Tops in Service”) to the nautical décor to the satisfyingly good Portuguese food, Carreiro’s Tip for Tops’n was a throwback in every sense except its popularity. Ernest Carreiro, a native of São Miguel in the Azores, ran Anybody’s Market in this building until the early 1950s, when he opened Tip. The business was acquired in 1966 by Edward “Babe” Carreiro of New Bedford, who had skippered Jenny B, and his wife, Eva (Cook) Carreiro. It passed to their sons Joseph Carreiro and Gerald Carreiro, whose widow, Joyce, ran the business until the end, in 2012. Devon Ruesch renovated the property, keeping much of the décor, and reopened it as Devon’s Deep Sea Dive.

35 Bradford Street

35 Bradford Street, Bonnie Doone Restaurant, courtesy of Joseph Andrews.

35 Bradford Street, Bonnie Doone Restaurant, courtesy of Joseph Andrews.

This site has been hopping since 1937, when the Bonnie Doone Grille (later the Bonnie Doone Restaurant) was opened by Mary (Prada) Cabral, who ran it with her husband, Manuel. Their daughter, Barbara, married Richard Oppen in 1948, after which the two couples ran the place, helped in turn by the third generation, Bonnie (Oppen) Jordan and her husband Joel Vizard. Its Thistle Cocktail Lounge was a popular gay rendezvous in the 1950s. The restaurant gained parking space in 1958 by tearing down the abutting former Conant Street School. In recent years, the building was remodeled by William Dougal and Rick Murray as the Mussel Beach Health Club, which they had opened on Shank Painter Road in 1993. They also own the Crown & Anchor.

35 Bradford Street, Bonnie Doone Restaurant, courtesy of Joseph Andrews.

35 Bradford Street, Bonnie Doone Restaurant, courtesy of Joseph Andrews.

41 Bradford Street

41 Bradford Street, Bradford House & Motel, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

41 Bradford Street, Bradford House & Motel, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

41 Bradford Street, Bradford House & Motel, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

41 Bradford Street, Bradford House & Motel, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Two distinct forms of hospitality — the guest house and the motel — are combined in one operation at the Bradford House & Motel. Hotel lore says the main house was built in 1888 by Reuben Brown, a coal and lumber merchant, for his intended wife. Its flying staircase was photographed by Joel Meyerowitz for Cape Light. The Browns’ son, Dr. Roy Brown, sold the house in the 1940s to Thomas and Anna (Crawley) Cote, whose father was Frank “Scarry Jack” Crawley. They added the one-story motel wing in 1950.

44 Bradford Street

44 Bradford Street, Provincetown Community Center, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

44 Bradford Street, Provincetown Community Center, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

44 Bradford Street, Governor Bradford School of 1892.

44 Bradford Street, Governor Bradford School of 1892.

The Colonial Revival-style New Governor Bradford School was built to replace the first Governor Bradford School, which was built in 1892 and burned down in 1935. The school became the Provincetown Community Center in 1956. Susan Leonard, a town native and historian, said the center’s focus was on after-school arts-and-crafts classes, Ping Pong, Camp Fire Girls and Boy Scouts; the halls echoing with the voices of easily a hundred kids. Friday night dances were the place to be for P.H.S. students, she said, and almost everyone’s first real date was here. The center moved in 2013 to the Veterans Memorial Elementary School. The fate of the building was unsettled at press time.

67 Bradford Street

9 Court Street, the Captain's House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, 67 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

9 Court Street, the Captain’s House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, 67 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

The deluxe Brass Key Guesthouse has grown by accretion into a large compound. The expansion was the work of Michael MacIntyre and his husband, Bob Anderson, who died in 2004. They also refurbished Land’s End Inn. Thomas Walter, Kenneth Masi, and David Sanford, the owners of Crowne Pointe, acquired the property in 2007. It includes:

8 Carver Street, the Queen Anne House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, 67 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

8 Carver Street, the Queen Anne House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

¶ The Queen Anne House, 8 Carver Street. This eclectic confection was the Cottage Inn in the 19th century. It was later home to Moses Nickerson Gifford, president of the First National Bank and son of James Gifford, namesake of the hotel up the street. Andrew Turocy III bought the house in 1981 and operated it as Roomers.

10 Carver Street, the Victorian House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, 67 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

10 Carver Street, the Victorian House of the Brass Key Guesthouse, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

¶ The Victorian House, 10 Carver Street, was built around 1865 in Second Empire style. It belonged to William Henry Young, the first president of the Provincetown Art Association and founder of what is now the Benson Young & Downs Insurance Agency. His wife, Anna (Hughes) Young, was a founder of the Research Club. It is for their son, Lewis A. Young, who died in World War I, that the Veterans of Foreign Wars post was named. Subsequent owners included Arthur and Martha (Alves) Roderick, who raised four children here before selling it in 1978.

¶ The Gatehouse and Shipwreck Lounge, 12 Carver Street, was home in the 1960s to Joseph and Virginia (Souza) Lewis, proprietors of the Pilgrim House. Lewis was a founder of the Portuguese-American Civic League. This building and 10 Carver were known together in the 1970s and ’80s as Haven House, run by Don Robertson.

Gus McCleod at George's Inn, by David Jarrett (1971).

Gus McCleod at George’s Inn, by David Jarrett (1971).

¶ The Captain’s House, 9 Court Street, was built in 1830 in the Federal style and is the most imposing building in the complex. It played an important role in the development of the gay and lesbian business community as George’s Inn, opened in 1964 by George Littrell. In the late ‘70s, it explicitly sought gay patrons only. Littrell was an early leader in the Provincetown Business Guild; in effect, the gay Chamber of Commerce. The inn closed in 1982. Littrell died in 2000.

70 Bradford Street

70 Bradford Street, the Bradford-Carver House, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

70 Bradford Street, the Bradford-Carver House, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Capt. Joseph Enos ran the Bradford Market in this mid-19th-century house in the 1940s. Twenty years later, it was the home of Irving McDonald, who wrote three novels, intended for Catholic boys, that charted the adventures of Andy Carroll at the College of the Holy Cross in Worcester. He taught a “Communist Conspiracy” course at P.H.S. The property was later Steele’s Guest House and is now the Bradford-Carver House, operated by Kenneth Nelson.

72-82 Bradford Street

70-82 Bradford Street, Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

70-82 Bradford Street, Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

The Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa occupies a commanding spot in what appears to be giddy Queen Anne style, though the turret is actually a much later addition. Known in the 1950s as Lynn House and in the ’80s as the Dusty Miller Inn, it was reopened in 1999 and is owned by the proprietors of the Brass Key: Thomas Walter, Kenneth Masi, and David Sanford. The Crowne Pointe, too, is a compound: the Mansion, 82 Bradford; the Abbey and Garden Residence, 80 Bradford (formerly the Sea Drift Inn); the Wellness Spa, 78 Bradford; and the Captain’s House, 4 Prince Street.

89 Bradford Street

Grace Gouveia and Mary Goveia, 89 Bradford Street, courtesy of Susan Leonard.

Grace Gouveia and Mary Goveia, 89 Bradford Street, courtesy of Susan Leonard.

Grace Gouveia, pictured at No. 89 with her mother, Mary Goveia, was born in Olhao, Portugal. Her father, Charles, was a Grand Banks fisherman. She recalled: “My mother would get word that the vessel was sighted off the back side, and without stopping for anything, she’d grab me by the hand, and take me down to the beach, where other women were gathered. They waited in silence … to see if the boat was coming in at half-mast. Once they saw it was not half-masted they knelt and blessed themselves, and went home to prepare for their men. If the ship came in at half-mast, as it often did, there was weeping and wringing of hands, and prayers were offered.” Gouveia taught for 27 years, joined the Peace Corps, and helped establish the Council on Aging, which was housed until recently in the Grace Gouveia Building. The house was built in 1847.

90 Bradford Street

90 Bradford Street, the Fairbanks Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

90 Bradford Street, the Fairbanks Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Other inns may come across like museums, but Eben House actually was one. The Federal-style, brick-sided home was built in 1776 by Capt. Eben Snow. It was purchased in 1826 by David Fairbanks, a founder of the Seamen’s Bank, and in 1865 by a tin merchant, Charles Baxter Snow Sr., and his wife, Anna (Lancy) Snow. It passed to their daughter, Gertrude (Snow) DeWager, and her husband, Dr. E. A. DeWager, staying in the family until 1953. Stan Sorrentino, the owner of the Crown & Anchor and a collector of American folk art, reopened it in 1975 as the David Fairbanks House, filled with more than 1,000 examples of antique folk art. From 1985 to 2014, it was the Fairbanks Inn, run by Alicia Mickenberg and Kathleen Fitzgerald. At press time, it is being transformed into a luxury property by Kevin O’Shea and David Bowd of the Salt House Inn, renamed in its builder’s honor.

94 Bradford Street

94 Bradford Street, Marine Hall, courtesy of Salvador R. Vasques III (ca 1929).

94 Bradford Street, Marine Hall, courtesy of Salvador R. Vasques III (ca 1929).

Village Hall was built in 1832 as a secular meeting place. It was renamed Marine Hall after Marine Lodge No. 96 of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows was chartered here in 1845. They bought the building the next year. The Masons also gathered here. The first meeting of the Board of Trade (now the Chamber of Commerce) was convened here in 1870 by John Atwood Jr. In 1886, The Advocate began printing here on steam-driven presses. The Odd Fellows built a new headquarters next door in 1895, after which this served as a Christian Science Church. It was demolished decades ago. The graves of Odd Fellows are often carved with three links, for friendship, love, and truth.

96-98 Bradford Street

96-98 Bradford Street, AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

96-98 Bradford Street, AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Detail of Provincetown AIDS Support Group sign, 96-98 Bradford Street, courtesy of Bill Furdon.

Detail of Provincetown AIDS Support Group sign, 96-98 Bradford Street, courtesy of Bill Furdon.

Less than a decade and a half after its first appearance in town in 1982, AIDS had claimed more than 385 lives, one-tenth of the permanent population, Jeanne Braham and Pamela Peterson wrote in Starry, Starry Night. By then, the Provincetown AIDS Support Group had established its front-line quarters in the Queen Anne-style Odd Fellows Hall, used from 1895 to 1955 by the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, one of whose missions was visiting and caring for the sick. PASG was founded in 1983 by Alice Foley, the town nurse; Preston Babbitt, proprietor of the Rose & Crown; and others. Its services include case management, transportation assistance, food and nutrition programs, H.I.V. prevention and screening, and housing. By merger in 2001, it became the AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod. Foley died in 2009; Babbitt in 1990, of AIDS.

97 Bradford Street

97 Bradford Street, Romeo's Holiday, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

97 Bradford Street, Romeo’s Holiday, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

97 Bradford Street, Romeo's Holiday, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

97 Bradford Street, Romeo’s Holiday, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

With its pink facade, the eight-room Romeo’s Holiday guest house is easy enough to see from across the street. But it’s worth getting closer to inspect the Ken and Barbie poolside tableaux, staged with dolls around a goldfish pond in the sliver of a front yard. The house was built in the mid-19th century. Stan Klein, the proprietor, said there was once an after-hours club on the property in which Judy Garland “delighted her followers” and that the building had been a guest house at least since the mid-1970s, known for a time as Pete’s Buoy.

100 Bradford Street

100 Bradford Street, New England Telephone and Telegraph Company central switchboard, courtesy of Duane Steele and Mary-Jo Avellar.

100 Bradford Street, New England Telephone and Telegraph Company central switchboard, courtesy of Duane Steele and Mary-Jo Avellar.

Mary-Jo Avellar and Duane Steele, 100 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

Mary-Jo Avellar and Duane Steele, 100 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

Provincetown had hand-cranked telephones until 1938, when 100 Bradford was built as the switching center for the New England Telephone and Telegraph Company, allowing customers to lift their receivers to summon an operator. Until 1966, 16 telephone operators stood by, greeting callers: “Number please.” After the town converted to direct dialing, this was briefly the Chrysler Glass Museum, home of Walter Chrysler Jr.’s collection of Sandwich glass. The Advocate moved here in 1975. It undertook an expansion and modernization in 1977, designed by John Moberg of Mobic Design-Build, with a newsroom, composing room, and two darkrooms. The newspaper was acquired by Duane Steele and Mary-Jo Avellar, who still live here.

102-104A Bradford Street

Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke, 104 Bradford Street, courtesy of Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke (ca 1979).

Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke, 104 Bradford Street, courtesy of Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke (ca 1979).

Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke, proprietor of the Provincetown Hotel at Gabriel’s and founder of the Women Innkeepers of Provincetown, says hers is the oldest continuously-run woman-owned inn in the country, having opened in 1979 as the Gabriel Apartments & Guest Rooms. It has “welcomed everyone for many years,” she adds. First, Brooke, Laurel Daigle Wise, and Christina and William Davidson acquired Nos. 104 and 104A, the abandoned Lighthouse Apartments for fishermen and transients. (No. 104 once housed the Cape & Vineyard Electric Company and, before that, Provincetown Light and Power.) Brooke acquired No. 102A in 1995 and the handsome, Federal-style No. 102 in 2000, and rebuilt both from basement to attic. Through 2013, this was known as the Ashbrooke Inn at Gabriel’s.

Town Green (Bas Relief Park)

Town Green, Bas Relief, by Det. Rich Alves, Provincetown Police Department (2015).

Town Green, Bas Relief, by Det. Rich Alves (2015).

Town Green, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Town Green, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

The centerpiece of Town Green is Signing the Compact, better known as the Bas Relief. The park and monument date from 1920, the 300th anniversary of the Pilgrims’ landfall. The 170-foot-wide park property, once occupied by houses, was taken by the state to create a vista of the Pilgrim Monument. The bronze relief, 16 by 9 feet, was designed by Cyrus Dallin and cast by the Gorham Manufacturing Company. It had a haunting quality in the winter of 2015. Nearby are a memorial to five Mayflower passengers who died while the ship lay in the harbor, and a tablet with the compact’s text, in which some see early stirrings of American democracy. Years ago, other stirrings in the densely wooded park involved sexual escapades, some of whose participants ended up in jail — just across Bradford Street in Town Hall.

109 Bradford Street

109 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

109 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

109 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

109 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Napoleon “Gene” Poyant didn’t have much of a commute from this 1840s home, tucked behind the former Congregational Church of the Pilgrims. Poyant served in the Coast Guard during World War II, stationed at Race Point, falling in love with Provincetown in the process. In the 1950s, he ran Gene’s Pastry Shoppe, on what had been the church’s front yard on Commercial Street. It became one of the liveliest spots in town after 1960, when he opened Café Poyant, one of the first sidewalk cafés in town. The portrait artist Harvey Dodd completed the tableau. In the mid-’60s, Poyant sought to rid the town of beatniks. “Mark my words,” he warned, “we won’t have a decent town for long.”

115 Bradford Street

115 Bradford Street, Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

115 Bradford Street, Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

115 Bradford Street, Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

115 Bradford Street, Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

This lovely and consequential house from around 1875-1885 has been in the foreground of thousands of pictures taken from the Pilgrim Monument. The decorative truss and vergeboard (pictured) are unmistakable. Walter Chrysler Jr. made his home here while running the Chrysler Art Museum. Roslyn Garfield, lawyer, real estate broker, and civic leader, had her office here. Staying here as a renter, Urvashi Vaid wrote Virtual Equality. This was once the office of the Provincetown Business Guild, founded in 1978 as a group of gay-run and gay-friendly establishments. Since 2001, it has been the headquarters of the Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, an organization devoted to research, public education, and conservation — best known for its work with marine mammals. It was founded in 1975 by Charles “Stormy” Mayo, Barbara Mayo, and Graham Giese.

116 Bradford Street

116 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

116 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

As its name suggests, the Burch House, circa 1840-1850, was home to the Burch family for many years. It was owned by J. M. Burch in the early 20th century and occupied by Huldah Theodora (Anderson) Burch until her death in 1959. Her only child, Jean Nichols, conveyed the property in 1962 to Herbert Cronin. As the purposefully modest 17-room Burch House, it stressed its inexpensive, informal nature, and was a popular guest house among gay visitors. It is also an especially fine example of the Greek Revival style, with a front facade of flushboard siding intended to evoke the smooth surface of a temple front.

118 Bradford Street

118 Bradford Street, Clarendon House, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

118 Bradford Street, Clarendon House, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Local tradition typically grants to 119 Bradford the distinction of having served as the original King Hiram’s Lodge. But this nobly proportioned, Federal-style house may also be a candidate. An 1836 map shows a Methodist church — not a Masonic lodge — where No. 119 stands now. And an 1890 guide book states that the old lodge passed to the heirs of Thomas Atkins, as this building had. In 1939, Eloise Browne bought the property and opened the Eloise Browne House. John Kelly gave it the name Clarendon House in the 1980s, after a street in Boston. Sidney Royal III succeeded him. Dale Chin and James Furlong bought the place in 2002, spruced it up considerably, and maintained it as a seven-room guest house until 2013.

129 Bradford Street

129 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

129 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Bryant House, as this property was known for many years, was opened by Mary Ann (MacKenzie) Bryant of Nova Scotia in 1914. At first it was a restaurant specializing in seafood, roasts, chops, and steaks. Her daughter-in-law, Marie-Louise (Kopp) Bryant, expanded it into a guest house, which she ran until 1949. Marie-Louise’s son, George Bryant, is an architectural historian and legendary local iconoclast. This was l’Hotel Hibou in the 1970s; Eddie’s Pastry Shop, run by Eddie Moran, in the ’90s; and, more recently, the Monument Barber Shop. It’s now the summer home of Alan Cancelino and Scott Perry of New York.

130 Bradford Street

130 Bradford Street, Sajivan Gulf Oil, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

130 Bradford Street, Sajivan Gulf Oil, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

130 Bradford Street, Gulf Oil station, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project (1977).

130 Bradford Street, Gulf Oil station, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project (1977).

At downtown’s heart are two service stations. Like many older Gulf Oil buildings, the Sajivan Inc. dealership at No. 130 has a Colonial Revival motif. Hubert and Laura Summers owned it until 1958 and ran a popular restaurant, It’s Hubert’s, which doubled as the bus terminal. Marcey’s Service Station followed, under Edward “Marcey” Salvador, who gave his nickname to the Marcey Oil Company. He sold the station to James Cordeiro, who turned it over to his son Neil. Cumberland Farms used to run the convenience store. The parking lot next door, once site of the Central School House, is where Linda Silva, a state social-services investigator, was killed in 1996 by Paul DuBois, who blamed her for losing custody of his children.

132 Bradford Street

132 Bradford Street, Old Colony Railroad passenger depot, courtesy of the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.

132 Bradford Street, Old Colony Railroad passenger depot, courtesy of the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.

365 Old King's Highway, North Truro, Old Colony Railroad freight depot from 132 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

365 Old King’s Highway, North Truro, Old Colony Railroad freight depot from 132 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Provincetown was firmly joined to the mainland in 1873, when the Old Colony Railroad inaugurated service from Boston. The depots stood here but the tracks continued to Railroad Wharf, to serve the fishing fleet. Four trains crawled daily up and down the Cape. They brought thousands of visitors, including New Yorkers who’d taken overnight boats to Fall River before switching to the train. Old Colony was subsumed into the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad in 1893. The last regularly scheduled passenger train ran in 1938. The passenger depot was replaced in 1950 by Duarte Motors, now the Duarte Mall. The freight depot was moved to 365 Old King’s Highway in North Truro, where it stands.

133 Bradford Street

Gene Greene, standing, Terrace Restaurant, 133 Bradford Street, by David Jarrett (1981).

Gene Greene, standing, Terrace Restaurant, 133 Bradford Street, by David Jarrett (1981).

A set of cascading brick terraces runs alongside this house, built in the mid-19th century, creating what would seem to be an ideal setting for romantic summer dining. The property was purchased in 1976 by Gene Greene and Alton “Al” Stilson, proprietors of the Ranch guest house at 198 Commercial. Greene ran this property as the well-regarded Terrace Restaurant. It was more recently l’Uva Restaurant. The chef, Christopher Covelli, was also the proprietor of Christopher’s by the Bay. L’Uva closed after the 2007 season. In 2011, Krista Kranyak reopened the space as Ten Tables, which only lasted three seasons. It is now Backstreet, under chef Raul Garcia, formerly of Edwige.

135 Bradford Street

135 Bradford Street, Fine Arts Work Center, courtesy of the Fine Arts Work Center (1971).

135 Bradford Street, Fine Arts Work Center, courtesy of the Fine Arts Work Center (1971).

Once owned by the New Haven Railroad, this was the home of the stationmaster, A. E. Slade. It served as the first, ramshackle Fine Arts Work Center from 1969 to 1972, before the center moved to 24 Pearl. Tenants have included the Cheshire Cats clothing boutique; the restaurants Meetinghouse, Cape Inn, Different Ducks, and Tropical Joe’s, where the Kinsey Sicks played; the Cyber Cove and Mail Spot Express business centers; Neal Kimball of Kimball Residential Design, who bought and restored the original section of the building in 2006; and, currently, Dr. Scott Allegretti’s Provincetown Dental Arts.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

136 Bradford Street

Laura Darsch, Maghi Geary, and Kim Oliver, Provincetown Florist, 136 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

Laura Darsch, Maghi Geary, and Kim Oliver, Provincetown Florist, 136 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

136 Bradford Street, Provincetown Florist, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

136 Bradford Street, Provincetown Florist, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

This Second Empire-style house, built around 1870-1875, loomed large over the Old Colony railyard. Menalkas Duncan, a prominent leather crafter — and Isadora Duncan’s nephew — bought it in 1955 and used it as the Duncan Sandal Shop. It’s since been an office, the Provincetown Fabric Shop, and a flower shop, which Maghi Geary (center) and Laura Darsch (left) acquired in 1988 and renamed Provincetown Florist. Their employee of longest standing is Kim Oliver (right), whose father worked at Duarte Motors next door. Their love of the business and of dogs, their professionalism, and their artistry are evident. Customers have included Bea Arthur, Sebastian Junger, José Quintero, Barbra Streisand, and Lily Tomlin.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

141 Bradford Street

141 Bradford Street, Bradford Natural Market, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

141 Bradford Street, Bradford Natural Market, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

That an old automotive garage is now a market for organic and natural products tells you much about the transformation of Provincetown. It was built around 1935 for Joseph Duarte’s Chevrolet and Oldsmobile dealership, Duarte Motors, which later moved across the street. Vannoy Motors also did business here. Lembas Health Foods, established by Barbara Edwards and eprds, moved here from 3 Standish. In 2006, it became B Natural, the Bradford Natural Market, under Rodney “R. J.” Johnson and Jim Sheehan. Since 2011, it’s been 141 Bradford Natural Market, owned by Joe Freitas and Chris Getman. A small branch, 141 To Go, is at 148 Commercial.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

142 Bradford Street

Bradford 142 01

Top: "Rooms for Tourists, by Edward Hopper, courtesy of the Yale University Art Gallery (1945). Bottom: 142 Bradford Street, Sunset Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Top: “Rooms for Tourists, by Edward Hopper, courtesy of the Yale University Art Gallery (1945). Bottom: 142 Bradford Street, Sunset Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Looks just like an Edward Hopper painting, doesn’t it? That’s because it is an Edward Hopper painting: Rooms for Tourists. At the time Hopper painted his tranquilly evocative nighttime scene, in 1945, James Carter and his family were living in this Italianate-style house, which was built around 1850-1860. It has been the Sunset Inn at least since the early 1960s. James Gavin and Keith Brickel bought the property in 1972. The Sunset Inn was an early member of the Provincetown Business Guild. Gavin ran it until 1997, when it was acquired by Joel Tendler. The lodging house license was transferred in 2002 to Adrian Padilla.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

150 Bradford Street

150 Bradford Street, Nelson's Market, courtesy of Tom Boland (1950s).

150 Bradford Street, Nelson’s Market, courtesy of Tom Boland (1950s).

150 Bradford Street, Far Land Provisions, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

150 Bradford Street, Far Land Provisions, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

150 Bradford Street, Far Land Provisions, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

150 Bradford Street, Far Land Provisions, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Far Land Provisions opened in 2004; its name combining those of Jim Farley and Tom Boland, who was then chairman of the Historic District Commission. Cozy, aromatic, and temptingly cluttered, it is a beacon of life in winter months. The building, constructed in 1952, has long played that role, as the L & A Supermarket — that would be Leo and Arlene Morris; Nelson’s Market, founded in 1933 at 349 Commercial and run by Clarence and Mabel Nelson; McNulty’s Market, Tim and Pam McNulty; and Bradford’s, Brad McDermott and Charles Pagliuca. As Nelson’s, the store provisioned much of the fishing fleet, delivering directly to the wharf. Its phone number, 45, is preserved as the root of Far Land’s (508) 487-0045.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

151 Bradford Street

151 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

151 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

151 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

151 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Study of Capt. Caleb Rich, by Charles Hawthorne.

Study of Capt. Caleb Rich, by Charles Hawthorne.

One of Charles Hawthorne’s Selectmen of Provincetown was Capt. Caleb Lombard Rich, who lived here. Capt. Ferdinand “Fred” Salvador registered the deed on this Second Empire-style house on 15 February 1944, evidently intending it as a birthday present for his wife, Philomena Valentine (Cordeiro) Salvador, who was born on Valentine’s Day. Born in Olhao, Portugal, Salvador was a leading fisherman from the 1920s through the ’70s. With his brother, Louis, who abutted him on 11 Johnson, he operated Shirley & Roland and Stella. He skippered C. R. & M., named for his children, Carol Ann (Salvador) Silva, Richard, and Michael; and Michael Ann, which was still working in 2007 as Chico-Jess. Later owners were responsible for the marvelously unrestrained interior décor.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

152 Bradford Street

152 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

152 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

152 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

152 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

For almost all of its existence, this sweet Queen Anne-style cottage from the late 19th century was in the hands of the Pine family: Joseph S. Pine in the early 20th century; Mary Rogers Pine, who ran the Rogers Dining Room for 35 years, until her death in 1946; followed by her daughter, Grace Pine, who sold cut flowers and potted plants here. More recently, it was the three-room Gracie House bed-and-breakfast, run by Debra Ann Messenbrink and Anna Maria Lutz.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

156 Bradford Street

156 Bradford Street, Elephant Walk Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

156 Bradford Street, Elephant Walk Inn, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Sears, Roebuck sold mail-order house kits with all the lumber, fixtures, and plans you needed to do it yourself. Assembled in 1917, this is one of several in town. It was a boarding house in the 1940s, run by Amelia Emily (Francis) Davis, where naval and civilian engineers stayed during submarine tests off Long Point. Alden “Pete” Steele and Clotilda “Tillie” Steele bought it in 1965 and ran it as the Casa Brazil Lodge, then sold it to Frederick and Phyllis Klein, who ran it as Frederick’s. Investors led by David Brudnoy purchased it in 1983 and created a condo, rechristening the front building Elephant Walk, after an Elizabeth Taylor movie of the same name. Len Paoletti, former proprietor of the Victoria House, owned the property from 1985 to 2003, when he sold it to Michael Clifford.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

158 Bradford Street

158 Bradford Street, Admiral's Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

158 Bradford Street, Admiral’s Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

This 1850s house was, for a time in the mid-1950s, the Casa Brazil rooming house. (That business moved next door, to No. 156.) Through the 1970s and mid-’80s, it was owned by Dorothy Nearen and Marilyn Cubberley, and called Wave’s Landing Guest House. Under Steve Irving, who acquired it in 1988, it became Admiral’s Landing — a slightly more masculine-sounding name and one that would be higher up in alphabetical tourism listings. Peter Bez and Chuck Anzalone bought the place in 1995. It was sold in 2010 to Robyn and Audri Bazlen-Weglarz.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

160 Bradford Street

160 Bradford Street, Seasons, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

160 Bradford Street, Seasons, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Once surrounded by maple trees, this gambrel-roofed house was built around 1860 for a Captain Small. From the 1960s through the early ’80s, it was the Maples guest house, run by Postmaster William Cabral and his wife, Ruth, who “cooked food for many a starving artist when the Fine Arts Work Center opened up,” her granddaughter Doreen Alsen recalled. It was renovated in 1984 as Plums Bed & Breakfast Inn, by Michael Wright. She (yes, she) was among the first Women Innkeepers of Provincetown, “whose goals were to create safe women-oriented spaces … and assist one another in all ways,” Karen Christel Krahulik wrote in Provincetown: From Pilgrim Landing to Gay Resort. It was acquired in 1999 by John Mirthes and Rick Reynolds, who run it as Seasons, an “inn for all” — gay, lesbian, and straight.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

170 Bradford Street

170 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

170 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

170 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

170 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

For some Wellfleet children in the 1800s, this Federal-style building was school. After being floated down to Provincetown, it was purchased in 1896 for $285 by Antone Gaspar, a fisherman from Faial in the Azores. Antone’s son Joseph, born in the house in 1900, replaced a kitchen that had a sand floor with a new one, in knotty pine. Joseph inherited the house on the stipulation that his brother, Manuel, could remain here until he died, which he did — at the kitchen table. Joseph’s son, Warren, also lived here, as did his grandson John Gaspar Jr. The Gaspars sold the property in 1970. The next owners allowed it to deteriorate so far that it was given a cameo role in the 1995 comedy, Lie Down With Dogs, as a scary guest house. It was demolished in 2011 and replaced with a pretty simulacrum.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

175 Bradford Street

175 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

175 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

The commanding view from this 1920s bungalow has been enjoyed by occupants as diverse as Marion Haymaker, a town librarian who shelved “inappropriate” books in hiding spots in the stacks, and Dini “Musty Chiffon” Lamot, of the band Human Sexual Response. In between, from 1958 to 1988, it was owned by Osma Couch Gallinger Tod, the author of nine books on weaving, basketry and other crafts; her daughter, Josephine (Couch) Del Deo, whose husband, the artist Sal Del Deo, used the house as a winter studio; and their daughter, Giovanna Del Deo. Tenants included Norman Mailer, the artist Jan Müller, and Robert Hatch, a critic at The Nation. The property has been owned since 1999 by Reed Boland.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

178 Bradford Street

178 Bradford Street, Snug Cottage, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

178 Bradford Street, Snug Cottage, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Snug is the word for this 1825 house, now an eight-room inn. In the 1960s, A. Philip Tarvers Jr. had his real estate business here. By the mid-70s, it was the Bradford Gardens Inn, among the earliest women-owned guest houses. It was purchased in 2000 by James Mack, who renamed it Snug Cottage. As a Unitarian Universalist chaplain, Mack is empowered to officiate at weddings, an amenity not many guest houses could offer. He’s married to Jon Arterton, founder and arranger of the Flirtations, a gay a cappella group, and founder and director of the Outer Cape Chorale. The couple sold Snug Cottage in 2010 to William Wilkins and Brian Wilkins.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

180 Bradford Street

180 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

180 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

"Untitled (Summer Garden)," by E. Ambrose Webster, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

“Untitled (Summer Garden),” by E. Ambrose Webster, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

James Bakker, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

James Bakker, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

A board-and-batten Gothic Revival-style compound, remarkable occupants, and a view over Lovett’s Court make this an important landmark. It was built around 1850 by Capt. Caleb Cook, who made watch lubricant in the corner building. E. Ambrose Webster acquired it in 1900. His painting school was at 463 Commercial, but his own studio was here. His widow, Georgianna (Rodgers) Webster, leased it to Gordon Hamm. The property passed to her nephew, Karl Rodgers Sr., whose daughter, Delorma (Rodgers) Morton, owned it until 2008. They rented part of the property to the sculptor William Boogar Jr. and his wife, Alice; and to the artists Bert Yarborough and Paul Bowen. It is now owned by James Bakker, the president of the Provincetown Art Association and Museum.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

194 Bradford Street

194 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

194 Bradford Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Ice coupon (ca 1920), courtesy of Stephen Borkowski.

Ice coupon (ca 1920), courtesy of Stephen Borkowski.

Ice. To generations accustomed to electrically-powered refrigeration, it’s impossible to convey how important ice was in a community whose livelihood depended on the most perishable foodstuffs. If you were a fisherman or (a homemaker), you needed ice. And chances were good that you dealt with Joseph De Riggs, who came here from Faial in the Azores, or his son Charles De Riggs. A home customer might buy a book of coupons for, say, 5,000 pounds of ice, in “denominations” ranging from 10 to 100 pounds, redeeming the coupons when the iceman came. This gambrel-roofed house from the early 20th century served as headquarters of the De Riggs Ice Company. The ice house stood on East Harbor (Pilgrim Lake) until the early 1940s, when it was destroyed in a storm.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

198 Bradford Street

198 Bradford Street, garage door, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

198 Bradford Street, garage door, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

The artist Isaac Henry Caliga of Boston and his wife, Elizabeth Howland, who came to town in 1912 to study with Hawthorne, lived here. Their house originated as a fish shed built around 1880 by the H. & S. Cook Company. It was turned into a barber shop, opposite Town Hall, before being rolled out here. Caliga died in 1944 and Howland in 1960. Her sister, Ruth (Howland) DeWitt, remained here until her death in 1965. The property is now owned by Gaby Rilleau, whose father, Roger, was a renowned sandal maker. Rilleau believes the garage doors, painted in the style of Peter Hunt, may be the work of a Caliga-DeWitt family member who ran the Peasant Door shop.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

208 Bradford Street

208 Bradford Street, Berta Walker Gallery, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

208 Bradford Street, Berta Walker Gallery, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

208 Bradford Street, Berta Walker Gallery, by Stephen Borkowski (2015).

208 Bradford Street, Berta Walker Gallery, by Stephen Borkowski (2015).

Berta Walker, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Berta Walker, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

At the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, built by Freeman Forbes “Bob” Dodge and run by him from the 1950s to the ‘70s, one could find unusual pottery, driftwood lamps, and Blenko glass. As the Berta Walker Gallery, it is among the leading artistic showcases in town. Walker was the founding director of the Graham Modern Gallery in New York; daughter of Hudson and Ione (Gaul) Walker, early leaders of the Fine Arts Work Center; granddaughter of the writer Harriet Avery and the musician Harvey Gaul; and great-granddaughter of Thomas Walker, benefactor of the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis. Her gallery, specializing in important local artists, opened in 1990 at 222 Commercial before moving here. The artist Sky Power is the director. This is a live-in shop, part of a condominium complex developed in the 1980s by Kent Coutinho.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

211 Bradford Street

211 Bradford Street, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

211 Bradford Street, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

To say simply that this was Cesco’s Italian Restaurant misses the point that Cesco, the “Spaghetti King of Cape Cod,” was a phenomenon, still recalled in the name Cesco Lane. (You’ll see it spelled Chesco, too.) Mary Heaton Vorse’s step-brother, Fred Marvin, a student of Charles Hawthorne, met Francesco “Cesco” Ronga in Naples and took him on as a “valet.” To our eyes, it looks like a longtime love affair cloaked in a fairly thin veil. They were devoted to one another more than 40 years until Marvin’s death in 1942, Amy Whorf McGuiggan told me. Cesco’s restaurant, where the Beachcombers was founded in 1916, passed to Patricia Hallett after Cesco’s death in 1947. The artist Harvey Dodd lived here in the ’60s, and the sculptor Richard Pepitone ran an art school here in the ’70s.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

212 Bradford Street

Harvey Dodd mural (1968) at 212 Bradford Street, East End Marketplace, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Harvey Dodd mural (1968) at 212 Bradford Street, East End Marketplace, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Even neighborhood grocery stores summon history in Provincetown. The East End Marketplace is a descendant of the Patrician Shop, which was opened in 1949 by Cyril Patrick — he of Patrick’s News Store — and his wife, Philomena “Phil” (Jason) Patrick, who was also his partner in the Noel Shop. With Manuel Cabral’s Bonnie Doone and Basil Santos’s Captain’s Galley, the Patrician was one of the first big commercial enterprises on Bradford. It was a general store, but with Eva Perry as cook, its lunch counter gained a reputation as having the best Portuguese soup on Cape Cod, Peter Manso said, as well as a mean lobster roll and a good old-fashioned banana split. After an interim as TeddySea’s Market, it became the East End. Furthering its local legacy is a bird’s-eye view of the Cape tip, painted by Harvey Dodd in 1968, a detail of which is pictured above.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

214 Bradford Street

214 Bradford Street, Foley House, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

214 Bradford Street, Foley House, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

Alice Foley, courtesy of The Provincetown Banner.

Alice Foley, courtesy of The Provincetown Banner.

“This house is proof that we are family here in Provincetown,” said Alice Foley (pictured) in 1996 at the dedication of Foley House, an assisted-living, congregate home for 10 otherwise homeless people living with H.I.V. and AIDS — the only program of its kind on the Cape. Foley cofounded the Provincetown AIDS Support Group (now the AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod). Its housing director, Irene Rabinowitz, worked on this project with the Provincetown Housing Authority. The effort began as a renovation, but the contractor demolished the existing structure in 1995. The house then had to be reconstructed. There are 10 bedrooms, each with a refrigerator and microwave oven, and two kitchens.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.