437 Commercial Street

437 Commercial Street, Poor Richard's Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

437 Commercial Street, Poor Richard’s Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

Poor Richard's Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

Poor Richard’s Landing, by David W. Dunlap (2013).

An entire chapter of Time and the Town was devoted to Clan Avellar, which included Angelina Jacinta (Soares) Avellar, or “Mother Avellar”; Antone, made famous by Gerrit Beneker in a World War I poster; and Justin, owner of Hindu. Their home, No. 437, is a half Cape. The French doors were added in 1971, when Harvey Dodd opened a gallery here. At that time, the second floor was extended to meet No. 439, forming a breezeway to Avellar’s Wharf. In 1960, George Harvender and Floyd Linder bought the wharf and renamed it Harvender’s Landing. Richard Lischer bought it in 1965 and renamed it Poor Richard’s Landing. Ilona Royce Smithkin and Karen Katzel bought it in 1991. It’s managed by Sarah Thompson and Diane Stafford. Dodd was succeeded by John Lucas’s J. Lucas Gallery, Alex Carleton’s Foc’sle store, and Shirl Roccapriore’s Oils by the Sea Gallery.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

452 Commercial Street

 
Tall Ship Apartments

Originally the Capt. William Bush house and once known as the Ship Apartments or Tall Ship Apartments, this building has changed astonishingly little in 35 years, as two pictures below (one taken by Josephine Del Deo in 1977) clearly show. Manuel F. “Pat” Patrick and Hilda Patrick owned the Ship Apartments in the 1940s and ’50s, when the best-known resident was Francis J. “Bossy” McGady (±1897-1952), whose “Up Along and Down Along” column in The Advocate conjured every week the voice of an Irishman who had grown up as the child of an innkeeper in Worcester, played football as a tramp athlete for any number of colleges he didn’t attend, More pictures and history»

† 454-456 Commercial Street

Solomon’s Temple

A modest home with a grand name, Solomon’s Temple commemorated its occupancy by Capt. Solomon Bangs (1821-1905), a weir fisherman, and his enterprising wife, Rosilla Bangs (1823-1908), the founder of Bangsville, a tent and cottage colony in the area now known as Mayflower Heights [?]. “Uncle Solomon’s home was a three-story structure with a large front yard,” Josephine Patterson recalled in 1942, “not landscaped with a lawn and flowers, but gleaming white with an expanse of fish flakes, upon which was spread to dry the fish he had salted when he returned from his fishing traps.” Rosilla Bangs introduced herself to President Theodore Roosevelt in 1907, when the chief executive came to town to lay the cornerstone of the Pilgrim Monument. More history»

455 Commercial Street

Now home to Scott Rodgers and Jon Hubanks, 455 Commercial Street was constructed in the early 20th century as a berth not for a whom, but for a what: Tamerlane. This sailboat took its name from a whaling bark captained by Joshua Baker Winslow on three voyages out of New Bedford, in 1854, 1858, and 1865. Provincetown’s Tamerlane was owned by Captain Winslow’s grandson, Henry Joshua Winslow (1880-1963), and his wife, Grace (Davenport) Winslow (1877-1970). The Winslows built and spent summers in the gambrel-roofed house next door, 457 Commercial Street. Tamerlane was kept in this combination boat house and garage. “They sailed her in Provincetown Harbor,” the Winslows’ granddaughter, Katharine Winslow Herzog, wrote in 2018. “The Tamerlane was quite well known. People still tell fearsome tales of my grandmother ringing a bell and telling people to stay off of that boat!” Both Nos. 455 and 457 were owned at one time by George Bryant. He sold them in separate years to separate owners, and the boat house-garage was converted into a dwelling. Rodgers bought it in 2016. He and Herzog met online after he noticed her middle name — Winslow — on a Facebook post she wrote about Provincetown. The families met in person in July 2018. “Kathy put together a collection of photographs and a written history of the property for us, which we will treasure,” Rodgers wrote later that day. “We now have pictures of the original boat, the Tamerlane, that was stored in our home when not in use.” Tamerlane wound up in the hands of Munro G. “Mun” Moore (1927-1995), an avid sailor, a developer, and a founder of the Fine Arts Work Center.

[Updated 2018-07-25]

457 Commercial Street

 
Three generations of very gifted Richters — Mischa (1910-2001), his son Dan (b 1939), and Dan’s sons Sacha (b 1968) and Mischa (b 1971) — have traveled in Provincetown orbits at some point or other. This was the home of Mischa grand-père for the last 23 years of his life. (A profile appears on Provincetown Artist Registry.) The most nationally renowned of the family group, Mischa Richter was a cartoonist for The New Yorker from 1942 to 2000, whose work tended toward the gently sly, like two dogs, dressed in business suits and standing upright in front of a door with a “No Dogs Allowed” sign on it. Says one to the other, “We’ve got a class-action suit if ever I saw one.” (A selection of his work can be seen on The Cartoon Bank.) The cartoon editor of The New Yorker said at the time of Richter’s death: “He was a joyous man and was bubbling over with ideas. Bubbled throughout his life.” More pictures and history»

460 Commercial Street

460 Commercial Street, Provincetown Art Association and Museum, Hans Hofmann Gallery, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

460 Commercial Street, Provincetown Art Association and Museum, Hans Hofmann Gallery, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

With the addition of the Alvin Ross Wing in 2005, the facade of the Provincetown Art Association and Museum expressed the tension between traditionalism and modernism that has long vitalized this institution. With glass walls, the new ground-floor gallery reaches out to the community; a deliberate gesture by the architects, Machado & Silvetti Associates. The addition roughly doubled PAAM’s size. It shows that contextual architecture doesn’t have to be imitative. Instead, the new wing, clad in cedar shingles and louvers, keeps a deferential distance from the Federal-style Ephraim Cook house to which it is joined.

460 Commercial Street, the new Alvin Ross Wing and the old Ephraim Cook house, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

460 Commercial Street, Provincetown Art Association and Museum — the new Alvin Ross Wing and the old Ephraim Cook house, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

460 Commercial Street, art school studio, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

460 Commercial Street, art school studio, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

The Art Association was founded in 1914. Its first president, William Henry Young, was president of the Seamen’s Savings Bank. The first show, in 1915, was at Town Hall and included five paintings that were the nucleus of the permanent collection, by Charles Hawthorne, E. Ambrose Webster, William Halsall, Oscar Gieberich, and Gerrit Beneker. In 1919, the association bought the Solomon Bangs house, called Solomon’s Temple, at Bangs and Commercial. Two years later, it purchased No. 460 next door, originally the home of Ephraim Cook and more recently of William Bangs. Solomon’s Temple fell and the Cook house was renovated as a gallery that opened in 1921. The Hawthorne Memorial Gallery was built on the corner lot in 1942. Dr. Carl Murchison oversaw the 1960 addition of the column-free, 30-by-60-foot Hofmann Gallery. On the 50th anniversary, Ross Moffett’s history, Art in Narrow Streets, was published.

Joseph Kurhajec's "Untitled (Moonflight Series)," outside 460 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

Joseph Kurhajec’s “Untitled (Moonflight Series),” outside 460 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

Robert Henry, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Robert Henry, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Chris McCarthy, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Chris McCarthy, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

By the late 1990s, PAAM had become a museum with almost 2,000 artworks and not nearly enough space to store them properly. It operated year-round, but not comfortably. The antiquated physical plant was discouraging lenders, because PAAM could not guarantee ideal conditions for artworks. In 2003, PAAM’s president, Robert Henry, and executive director, Chris McCarthy, announced a $5 million expansion. The first phase, in 2004, restored the Cook house. The ground floor, formerly a reception area and gift shop, was turned into a new gallery. Next, from 2004 to 2005, the 1942 Hawthorne annex was replaced by the Ross wing. It added storage space, two new galleries, a new gift shop and reception area, and new second-floor studios for the art school. Not everyone was won over, but McCarthy said that if the annex hadn’t been built, the museum “would have fallen down or it would have closed.”


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

460 Commercial Street

 
Provincetown Art Association
and Museum

With the addition of the Alvin Ross Wing in 2005, the facade of the Provincetown Art Association and Museum now expresses almost perfectly the strong undercurrent of creative tension — between traditionalism and (moderate) modernism — that has long vitalized this institution. With expansive glass walls, the new ground-floor gallery reaches out to the community; a deliberate gesture by the architects, Machado and Silvetti Associates of Boston. The addition, which roughly doubled PAAM’s size, is a lesson in urbanism: contextually appropriate architecture doesn’t have to be imitative. Instead, the new wing, clad in cedar shingles and louvers, keeps a deferential distance, spatially and aesthetically, from the old Ephraim Cook house, to which it is joined.

More pictures and history

462 Commercial Street

Ravenwood (Silverleaf Condominium)

Four accomplished women — Helen Carr (Dugdale) Wood, Eva De Nagy, Diane J. Corbo and Valerie A. Carrano — have been associated with this property since 1944, when it was known as the Silver Leaf Cottage. Wood (±1875-1960) bought the building in 1944 from Theodore Chase. Born in England, Wood had come to America with her parents, settling in New Bedford. She studied art before and after marrying William A. Wood, an engineer who helped plan the first telephone lines to reach the lower Cape. One of her daughters, Mildred Greensfelder, is commemorated by the children’s playground at 211½ Bradford Street. Three years after she bought the place, the enormous elm in the front yard was toppled during a hurricane. More pictures and history»

463 Commercial Street

463 Commercial Street, the Flagship dory bar, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

463 Commercial Street, the Flagship dory bar, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

Peter Petas and Ted Jones faced a critical question: restore this building to its form as the Flagship restaurant, with portico braced on ship’s knees, or take it back close to the 1910 studio built by E. Ambrose Webster as his Summer School of Drawing and Painting? They chose Webster, who died in 1935, by coincidence the year that Manuel “Pat” Patrick opened the Flagship in the abutting “Hulk.” The Flagship expanded into this building, gained a dory bar, and became an institution. After Patrick died in 1964, it continued under his widow, Hilda, then Ciro Cozzi. It was where Anthony Bourdain got his start and appeared in his Kitchen Confidential as the “Dreadnaught.” In the ’90s, it was the Dancing Lobster, under Nils Berg; then Jackson’s at the Flagship. While Petas and Jones removed other accretions, they kept the dory bar, so in one sense, there’ll always be a Flagship.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

463 Commercial Street

 
Flagship

The Flagship, with its renowned and utterly improbable dory bar, is one of those cherished institutions that’s missed even by people who never knew it. Built and used at first by the artist E. Ambrose Webster (pictured at left) as an instructional studio, it was for many years the place to dine and drink in the East End. Its history is interwoven with that of the Beachcombers next door, at 465A Commercial. Part pier shed, part foundry, part wharf, part studio, it’s hard to tell where the Flagship leaves off and where the Beachcombers begin. For a time in the 1930s, the Flagship catered the Beachcomber dinners, making the distinction between them even tougher to discern. But the spirit of the Flagship endures, though it’s a private home now. And as long as there’s a dory bar in place, there will always be a Flagship.


More pictures and history»

465A Commercial Street

 
Hulk (Beachcombers’ clubhouse) | (Former) William Boogar Foundry | McGuire Gallery and Studio

You could walk dozens of times past this nondescript old waterfront building — the Hulk is its official designation — without realizing that it has long been a locus of power, influence and camaraderie in the Provincetown art colony. I certainly did. And you know what? The Beachcombers are fine with that. They deliberately assume a low profile. Almost nothing about the Hulk gives away its purpose publicly, except a small hand-painted sign saying, “Parking only while in the Beachcombers.”

So who are the Beachcombers? Think: Century Association and Skull & Bones — in a camel costume. That is, an arts organization that takes its mission and itself quite seriously, but that can’t help indulge sometimes in hijinks that would have been more or less appropriate for a boys’ summer camp. It is no coincidence that it was founded two years after the Provincetown Art Association across the street, and by many of the same people. As the art colony grew in the early 20th century, it needed both a place to exhibit its work seriously and a place to fraternize privately. Its 1916 constitution said its purpose was “to promote good fellowship among men sojourning or resident in or about Provincetown who are engaged in the practice of the fine arts or their branches” or “who are intimately connected with the promotion of the fine arts” — defined to mean painting, etching, engraving, sculpture, architecture, designing, illustrating, writing, music and acting. Officers, committees and events were given maritime names. More pictures and history»

465 Commercial Street

Julie Heller East

A plaque on the building notes that it was once the whale oil refinery of David C. Stull (1844-1926), the Ambergris King, who lived at 472 Commercial. The quarterboard (a replica, according to George Bryant) recalls the Montezuma, a whaler commissioned in the 1850s. The storefront space was the East End Market and the Little Radio Shop, managed by S. F. Weeks, in the 1930s; the shop of the silversmith Jules Brenner from 1956 to 1966 and the Boat House Gallery in the mid-2000s. It is now the East End branch of Julie Heller’s long-established and well-respected gallery downtown.

466 Commercial Street

 
Kibbe Cook – Mary Heaton Vorse House

Your perspective on Provincetown was shaped in some measure by Mary Heaton Vorse (1881-1966), the author of Time and the Town: A Provincetown Chronicle (1942), whose house this was from 1907 until her death in 1966. An ardent progressivist and champion of labor — a “militant liberal,” The New York Times said in her obituary — Vorse was deeply involved with the Provincetown Players. In her book, she depicts the town with the convincing skill of a W.P.A. muralist. It’s not that she glosses over fissures, but she imbues her characters — Portuguese, Yankee or washashore; fisherman, homemaker or playwright — with proletarian nobility and the capacity to put aside differences and work shoulder-to-shoulder in the town’s best interests. More pictures and history

466 Commercial Street

466 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

466 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

Eddie Ritter, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Eddie Ritter, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Whether you’ve read her or not, your perspective of town was shaped by Mary Heaton Vorse, the author of Time and the Town, whose house this was from 1907 until her death in 1966. (She called it the Kibbe Cook house, after a whaling captain who lived here). Ardent progressivist, champion of labor, and midwife to the Provincetown Players, Vorse depicted the town with the skill of a W.P.A. muralist. She imbued her characters — Portuguese, Yankee or washashore; fisherman, homemaker or playwright — with proletarian nobility and endearing eccentricities. Her children, Heaton and Mary Ellen Vorse, were also writers. Mary Ellen’s son, John Richard Vorse “Butch” Beauchamp, owned this property until his death in 2013. It is home to the dory fisherman Eddie Ritter, whose bright orange boat is named for Eddie Hoernig of the ill-fated F/V Cap’n Bill.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

† Wharf at 467 Commercial Street

E. & E. K. Cook & Company Wharf

Also known as Kibby Cook’s Wharf, this was 900 feet long. “Whalers and bankers fitted out at this pier and came into this site for annual overhauls,” Irving S. Rogers wrote in 1941. Kibby Cook — properly Epaphras Kibby or E. K. Cook (1824-1905) — lived near the foot of this wharf at 466 Commercial Street, later the home of Mary Heaton Vorse. More history»

† 467 Commercial Street

 
John G. Whitcomb Shipyard

Some of Provincetown’s finest and proudest vessels were made at the shipyard occupying the lot between Angel Foods and the former George Bryant house. John G. Whitcomb (d 1901) was a ship’s carpenter from Yarmouth, Me., who moved here in 1865, according to King Hiram’s Lodge, to which Whitcomb belonged. More picture and history»

467 Commercial Street

 
Angel Foods

Long before Angel Foods opened — I mean, long before it opened — customers came here for provisions. In the 19th century, they were ships’ crews, for this was the chandlery of E. & E. K. Cook & Company — the Cook brothers’ mighty whaling and fishing empire that collapsed overnight in 1879.

More pictures and history»

467 Commercial Street

467 Commercial Street, Angel Foods, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

467 Commercial Street, Angel Foods, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

George Bryant's unfinished salt works replica, behind 467 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

George Bryant’s unfinished salt works replica, behind 467 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

Long before Angel Foods Market opened, customers came here for provisions. In the 19th century, they were ships’ crews, for this was the chandlery of E. & E. K. Cook & Company — the Cook brothers’ mighty whaling and fishing empire. Clarence Burch opened Burch’s Market here in 1904. His nephew (through marriage), Duncan Bryant, husband of Marie-Louise Kopp and father of George Bryant, bought out the Burches and renamed it Bryant’s Market in 1945. For more than a decade, it has been Angel Foods, run by Elizabeth Lovati, furnishing staples and temptations. Out back is George Bryant’s uncompleted replica of a salt works. What Bryant managed to build in the 1970s — and what still stands today — is the bottom half of a windmill, a critical part of the salt-making process. These machines harnessed wind power to pump water from the harbor, through pipes of hollowed-out logs, into large evaporation vats.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

467 Commercial Street

 
Salt works reconstruction (Unfinished)

In a town full of architectural follies, it is folly itself to choose a favorite. But George Bryant’s abandoned salt works project of the 1970s surely ranks near the top for its scope and ambition, its persistence for more than 30 years and the fact that it hides in plain sight, just behind Angel Foods but probably unnoticed by 90 percent of the store’s patrons.

To appreciate the project fully, it helps to know that salt production was a keystone of the economy and central to Provincetown life. Clean, pure salt was needed to preserve cod and other freshly caught fish by drawing moisture out of the gutted, beheaded bodies. Before refrigeration, such rudimentary preservation was essential. Otherwise, there was no way to keep the fish for local consumption nor to ship it out to mainland markets. More pictures and history»

468 Commercial Street

This has long been the most conspicuous house along Cooks’ row and that was apparently just the object of the wife of Capt. Daniel Cook, who built it — over his other relatives’ objections — on a parcel that was barely large enough to contain its bulk. “This domineering lady insisted that she must be on the front street,” Mary Heaton Vorse wrote in Time and the Town. “She wished, she said, ‘to see the sun rise over the sea from the eastern chamber.'” Having alienated the seven other Cooks who lived nearby, the captain was supposed to have told his wife once construction was finished: “There. Now eat it! Ain’t nothin’ else to eat.” And there wasn’t even sunrise to be seen from the eastern chamber, as the story of 470 Commercial Street will reveal. More history»

470 Commercial Street

Check out this sweet little house, on a generous front yard, from the east side of the lot — about the vantage of the photo. Chances are, you’ll be struck by just how claustrophobic 468 Commercial Street renders this otherwise picturesque scene, and how completely it blocks any western prospects from the house. Funny you should sense that. Capt. Alfred Cook felt the same way. And he had to live here as his relative, Capt. Daniel Cook — urged on by his wife — walled off his precious panorama with the sheer bulkiness of his pretentious new home. Capt. Alfred was not about to let Capt. Daniel get away with it, as Mary Heaton Vorse recounted in Time and the Town: More pictures and history

471 Commercial Street

471 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

471 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2011).

George Bryant, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

George Bryant, by David W. Dunlap (2010).

The ardently independent and amazingly knowledgeable George Bryant once lived here. Historian, architect, home inspector, consultant, public servant, and gadfly; by turns sweet, funny, impatient, and irascible, Bryant — who died in 2015 — was not everyone’s cup of tea. But his death left an enormous civic void. The house was built about 1905 for Elijah Rodgers. Cora Allen Herring acquired it in 1944, with her husband, John. Frances Gray bought it 1965 and ran it as the Harbor Guest House. Bryant moved here in 1977. He collected historical artifacts or (as officials saw it) he hoarded unsightly junk until it spilled outside. A five-year standoff between Bryant and the town ended in 2011 when he agreed to stay away from the property. It was sold the next year to Ken Fulk, a leading interior decorator and event planner in San Francisco, whose restoration goal, he said, was “keeping much of the beautiful patina” of the home.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

471 Commercial Street

 
The ardently independent spirit of Harry Kemp lives on, in the person of George Bryant (b 1937). And Bryant lived for nearly 35 years in this house. Like Kemp, Bryant has marched indefatigably to the tune not simply of a different drummer, but of a different band entirely. He is architect, home inspector, consultant, public servant, gadfly, and — above all — historian. By turns sweet, funny, impatient and irascible, Bryant’s approach is not welcomed by everyone in town. But Provincetown without him is inconceivable. His living memory — an encyclopedic amalgam of personal lore, structural provenance, illuminating history and dark rumor — is the mortar that helps hold local history together. [See, for example, “George Bryant: A Personal Tour.”] He knows more about the town’s buildings, and who occupied them, than anyone alive. (Full disclosure: He’s always been enormously generous in sharing his knowledge with me, so you may detect favorable prejudice.) In this respect, Bryant differs markedly from Kemp, who was the Poet of the Dunes, more in love with style than substance. Bryant on the other hand is all about substance, facts, tangible matter. He is a storehouse. Quite literally. And that was his downfall at No. 471. More pictures and history»

472 Commercial Street

 
Once, organic products were really organic. A highly desirable lubricant for timepieces and precision instruments was an oil ladled from the heads of dead pilot whales (called blackfish) and the most prized binding agent for otherwise volatile perfumes was the waxy substance ambergris, secreted from the intestines of sperm whales and famously worth more than its weight in gold. David Conwell Stull, who lived here, traded in whale oil but was best known as the Ambergris King, so expert in judging the value of a lump of ambergris that he could set the market price. More pictures and history»

472/477 Commercial Street

472 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

472 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

A fine lubricant for precision instruments was oil from the heads of pilot whales (blackfish). And the most prized binding agent for volatile perfumes was the waxy substance ambergris, secreted inside sperm whales. David Stull, who lived at No. 472, traded in whale oil but was best known as the Ambergris King. Contrary to the plaque out front, the house was not built by Sylvanus Cook, according to George Bryant, though it was the home of Nathaniel Cook. It passed from Stull, through his daughter, Mary (Stull) MacIntyre, to his grandson, D. Stuart MacIntyre. Munro “Mun” Moore, a founder of the Fine Arts Work Center, and Mary Moore, of the Center for Coastal Studies, purchased it in 1966. The best thing about the Moore property is its front lawn, that broad expanse with a swing set across the street at 477 Commercial; quiet, generous, expansive, and undeveloped.

477 Commercial Street, the front yard of 472 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

477 Commercial Street, the front yard of 472 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2008).


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

473 Commercial Street

 
MacMillan House

Provincetown’s most famous native son — Rear Admiral Donald Baxter MacMillan (1874-1970) — was an intrepid and imaginative Arctic explorer, anthropologist, geographer and naturalist. Though he traveled more than 300,000 miles in 30 trips to the far north, he lived just blocks from where he was born (524 Commercial Street). This building was originally the barracks for the Civil War batteries at Long Point. MacMillan was the last survivor of the 1908-09 expedition in which Robert E. Peary claimed to have reached the North Pole. But “Mac” was no mere adventurer. His goal was “to bring back to scholars of all kinds bits of useful knowledge about this little-known great domain.” More pictures and history»

473 Commercial Street

473 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

473 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2012).

Miriam and Donald MacMillan, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

Miriam and Donald MacMillan, courtesy of the Provincetown History Preservation Project.

The town’s most famous native son, Rear Adm. Donald MacMillan, was an intrepid and imaginative Arctic explorer, anthropologist, geographer, and naturalist. His goal was “to bring back to scholars of all kinds bits of useful knowledge about this little-known great domain.” In nine journeys, he was joined by his wife, Miriam Look MacMillan. Though he traveled more than 300,000 miles, he lived just blocks from where he was born, 524 Commercial. His memorabilia are at the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum. MacMillan Wharf is named for him. This building was originally the barracks for the Long Point batteries. Its owners, Christopher Pula and Thomas Biggert, have treated it respectfully and preserved its lovely eccentricities.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

476 Commercial Street

 
Figurehead House

Could there have been a better known lady in Provincetown? I’m not referring to the figurehead that gives 476 Commercial Street its name — renowned as she is — but to Abbie Cook Putnam (±1870-1956), who was the town librarian from 1901 to 1935. Miss Putnam was not to be trifled with. For her, the fact that a 28-year-old playwright who showed up at the library in 1917 had achieved a bit of local renown was of no consequence. Eugene O’Neill wasn’t a property owner, so Miss Putnam was not about to issue him a library card unless someone proper had vouched for him. More pictures and history»

476 Commercial Street

476 Commercial Street, Figurehead House, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

476 Commercial Street, Figurehead House, by David W. Dunlap (2008).

Could there have been a more memorable lady in Provincetown? I’m not referring to the figurehead that gives No. 476 its name — Figurehead House — but to Abbie Cook Putnam, the town librarian from 1901 to 1935, who lived here. She would not issue Eugene O’Neill a library card on his own standing in 1917, since he wasn’t a property owner. And when he showed up drunk at the library after winning the Pulitzer Prize, she tossed him out. Miss Putnam’s grandfather, Capt. Henry Cook, lived in this Second Empire-style house. On the Indian Ocean in 1867, the A. L. Putnam, a whaling schooner in the Cook fleet, came across a lone figurehead, severed from whatever vessel she had once adorned. She was brought back to town and placed on Capt. Cook’s house where she, or a plaster replica, have been perched ever since.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

477 Commercial Street

 
The existence of a beautifully simple yard, complete with swing set, at what would otherwise be a multimillion-dollar waterfront development site is itself enough to make the heart sing. But the lawn makes an extra contribution to the civic landscape by opening the vista at the end of Cook Street to the harbor itself, with the result that Cook Street is one of the loveliest in Provincetown. More pictures and history»

479 Commercial Street

 
Anchorage

The name Anchorage perfectly described this house, since it served as the ancestral hearth of the four generations of artists in the Brown-Malicoat family, easily the largest and perhaps the most influential of the 20th-century art dynasties in Provincetown. This was the home, at least as far back as the 1920s, of Harold Haven Brown (1869-1932); his wife, Florence Bradshaw Brown (b 1868); and their daughters, Beatrice Bradshaw Brown (±1899-1952) and Barbara Haven (Brown) Malicoat (1903-1987), who’s shown in this picture with her husband, Philip Cecil Malicoat, posing before the Anchorage bulkhead with their children. More pictures and history»

† Wharf at 481 Commercial Street

H. & S. Cook & Company Wharf

The largest landmark along the Cooks’ row (eight houses and three wharves) was the 1,000-foot-long wharf of H. & S. Cook & Company, which had been founded in the 1840s by Henry, Sylvanus and Jonathan Cook. Five or six vessels could be accommodated at the pier, the United States Commercial Recorder noted in 1890, and as many as 16,000 quintals of codfish were handled there every season — or 800 tons — which would be cured and shipped in turn to Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore. “Besides this, the firm maintains a large store on Commercial Street, containing a complete stock of ship stores and groceries.” It is shown above at No. 33.

481 Commercial Street

 
Chandler House

You might think many things about the spartan box at 481 Commercial, with its odd little clerestory windows, as you scurry by in search of authentic cultural milestones. You might wonder where the Historic District Commission was when we needed it. You might ponder how anyone could see out those windows. You probably wouldn’t think, “Ah, this is one of the most important landmarks of the last golden age of the Provincetown summer art colony, and a vital outpost of the Abstract Expressionist movement in the early 1950s.” But it is. And it was.

Now the Chandler House Gallery, a two-bedroom condominium, this building was constructed 60 years ago as the Kootz Gallery; the Provincetown branch of Samuel M. Kootz’s important and influential gallery at 15 East 57th Street in Manhattan, where the works of Abstract Expressionists (Kootz called them the “Intrasubjectives”) were given a generous home. The New York gallery opened in 1949 with a show that included Robert Motherwell, Hans Hofmann, Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Arshile Gorky and Ad Reinhart. That was for starters! More pictures and history»

485 Commercial Street

 
On the afternoon of 14 May 2008, I took this picture of a pile of lobster trap buoys in front of 485 Commercial Street. Obviously, they had caught my eye, but they hadn’t excited much more interest than that. I squeezed off only one frame. I had no idea at the time that I was recording history. Five months later, when The Banner published a poignant essay by Dennis Minsky, “Todd Silva Is Leaving Provincetown,” I understood that I had been witnessing the last stand of “one of the last watermen on the waterfront.” Commercial Street had lost a working lobsterman, Todd Silva (b 1960), the skipper of the Pam & Todd. More pictures and history»

490 Commercial Street

 
BayShore No. 20 (Iota)

In English, jot is derived from iota — meaning the smallest bit. In Provincetown, Iota is derived from Jot — meaning Jonathan C.”Jot” Small (±1876-1952), boatbuilder extraordinaire, Arctic traveler and, for a time in the 1930s, proprietor of a restaurant called Jot’s Galley here at 490 Commercial. The cottage served a commercial purpose before and after Small’s tenure, as Flora Winslow DeLaurier’s Bob Shoppe, a hair salon, in the 1920s and as Manuel F. Patrick’s Iota Package Store (read: liquor) in the 1940s. More pictures and history»

491 Commercial Street

 
Last general store

An era passed in June 1959 with the closing of Provincetown’s last true general store, which had opened in the 1880s under Josiah Swift, passed to Alpheus Irving “Irv” Freeman (±1875-1960), then to John I. Shaw and his wife. “When Irv Freeman ran the store, the two big windows displayed socks, gloves, lanterns, pie plates, magazines, crockery, sprinkling cans, oil cans, cakes, lawn grass seed, soap flakes, furniture polish, beer pails, flashlights, buckets, gasoline cans, axes, shovels, hoes, soap, paper cups, baking powder, Vaseline, lemon squeezers, dog food, pudding flavor, Boston brown bread, canned peas, ink, peaches and animal crackers,” a newspaper account recalled. More pictures and history»

492-494 Commercial Street

 
Former Eastern School House | Schoolhouse Gallery | ArtStrand | WOMR

Thirty or forty years before the notion of “adaptive reuse” gained currency in the preservation movement, the Eastern School was adaptively reused. Again. And again. And again. It has a remarkable track record of community service, made even more astonishing by the fact that is one of the few extant buidings in Provincetown that were mentioned by Henry David Thoreau in Cape Cod: “Notwithstanding all this sand, we counted three meeting-houses and four school-houses nearly as large.” The Eastern School was constructed in 1844, along with the Western School on Tremont Street and the Central School at 126 Bradford Street, both now demolished. Each served three grades. “These schools were furnished with blackboards, maps, globes and all the latest appliances for education in that day, and were considered models,” Nancy W. Paine Smith wrote in The Provincetown Book. More pictures and history»

492-494 Commercial Street

492-494 Commercial Street, Eastern School, courtesy of the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.

492-494 Commercial Street, Eastern School, courtesy of the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.

Ira Wood in the WOMR radio studios, 492-494 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Ira Wood in the WOMR radio studios, 492-494 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2014).

Enumerated by Henry David Thoreau in Cape Cod, this building was the Eastern School until 1931; the Community Center; the Servicemen’s Center in World War II; Morris-Light Post No. 71 of the American Legion; Leo Manso and Victor Candell’s Provincetown Workshop; and, from 1976, the Long Point Gallery, an important co-operative, and Rising Tide Gallery. In 1998, Howard “David” Davis III turned the building into the Schoolhouse Center. Binder Boland Associates recreated the missing bell tower. Lower Cape Communications bought the building in 2003 for radio station WOMR-FM, the subject of Outermost Radio the Film. Pictured in the studio is Ira Wood. WOMR shares the building with Mike Carroll’s Schoolhouse Gallery and ArtStrand, owned by a group of artists and directed by Grace Hopkins.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.

493 Commercial Street

BayShore (West)

There were giants in town. Dr. Frederick S. Hammett (±1886-1953) was among them. Internationally known for his research in cellular growth — research aimed specifically at finding the possible causes and, by extension, the cure for cancer — Hammett was also a devoted Beachcomber, known for his remarkable outfits in the annual costume balls, and at one time the president of the Provincetown Art Association. This was his home. It was also home a decade later to Harold Goodstein. He commissioned the architect Donald Jasinski, designer of the remarkable Farfalla cottage at 236R Bradford Street (otherwise known as the “Mushroom House”), to renovate the building. The project won the admiring attention of House Beautiful magazine in 1967, especially for the staircase in the double-height living room, leading up to a loft bedroom. More pictures and history»

495 Commercial Street

 
BayShore (East)

Though the BayShore’s courtyard is private, an arched breezeway between 495 Commercial and 493 Commercial offers anyone who walks by a spectacularly framed glimpse of the harbor. Intended as such or not, it is a welcome little civic gesture, since the impulse to wall off the waterfront for private enjoyment runs strong. Then again, there has always been a strong upland-to-shoreline connection at this property, since it was once Brown’s Bathing Beach. (See 497 Commercial.) And this was Mary Brown’s rooming house. It is now managed by Ann Maguire and Harriet Gordon as part of a multi-unit complex that includes 493 Commercial, 490 Commercial, 481 Commercial and 77 Commercial.

496 Commercial Street

496 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

496 Commercial Street, by David W. Dunlap (2009).

The nobility of this Federal-style house, set off in a generous yard, draws our eyes. What made it remarkable in the late 18th century was its full second story, under a hipped roof, which earned it the name “Captain’s House.” The single central chimney hints of its great age. In the late 1800s, it was the home of Henry Dyer, a seaman, and Susan Dyer. As the Dude Ranch nightclub in the 1930s, it employed a black orchestra, though more as a novelty than as a blow for social progress. Alice Douglas Kelly ran the Cape Cod School of Writing here in the 1940s. Thomas Fitzpatrick turned it into the Ancient Mariner restaurant in the ’50s. More recently, it belonged to Michael Tye, who was instrumental in founding the Harbor to the Bay AIDS Charity Bike Ride. He died in 2003, just before the inaugural ride.


More than 2,000 buildings and vessels are searchable on buildingprovincetown.com. The Building Provincetown book is available for purchase ($20) at Town Hall, Office of the Town Clerk, 260 Commercial Street, Provincetown 02657.